Pet The World

What qualities do dogs look for in their leaders? Adopt these 3 simple qualities to turn your dog’s behavior around almost literally overnight!

It probably won’t surprise you to learn that dogs look for the same leadership qualities that people look for - consistent leaders who lead by example and who reward good behavior.

1. Consistency: communication between different species is not an easy task, especially when one species can talk and the other can’t! Inconsistency makes that task all the more difficult. By adopting consistent behaviors in yourself, setting consistent boundaries, and keeping some sort of consistent routine - your dog will have an easier job of figuring out what you expect.

2. Lead by example: dogs tend to mimic our actions. Don’t rely on them interpreting our intentions correctly. If we yell at our dog for being aggressive, this can lead to more aggression from our dog. They don’t necessarily understand that we are angry and upset with their actions, they just follow our lead. When we learn calm approaches to dealing with this sort of problem, our lead is followed with calmness in return.

3. Reward good behaviour: behavior that is effectively rewarded tends to increase or continue. Therefore it makes sense to reward the behavior we want to see in our dogs. In the same way we get paid to work, our dogs expect to be paid too. Life in the pack works that way; food, security, shelter, play and social contact are the rewards dogs work for. Whilst our pet dogs get most of this stuff for free, it makes sense to ask them to do something to earn it, no matter how simple the task. Asking a dog to sit before letting it outside, or asking for a short ’stay’ before being fed are two simple examples.

By adopting these 3 qualities and making them habits in your day to day interaction with your pets, you will see positive changes in your relationship. Dogs do respect these qualities and respond in kind with faithful companionship.

Aidan Bindoff is Editor of Positive Petzine, a free resource for people training their own dogs.

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Does your dog bark when you have a knock at the door? Follow this simple plan to end excessive barking at the door.

Many dogs will bark when they hear a knock at the door. This is probably to announce the arrival of a new person to their territory. They learn pretty quickly that a knock on the door is quickly followed by a visitor.

But what if a knock at the door was only occassionally followed by a visitor?

Some dog owners have quick success at reducing barking by simply knocking on the door repeatedly throughout the day. With no visitor appearing at the door, the knock sound soon stops being associated with the visitor. At first, the barking will probably get worse. After a few repetitions, it should start to reduce. Don’t lose heart if it doesn’t appear to work for a little while.

When your dog gets really good at not barking when he hears a knock on the door, invite someone around to help out. Just have them knock on the door every minute and not come in unless your dog hasn’t barked. Do this for about 5 or 6 repetitions, no need to overdo it.

You can speed things up by rewarding your dog for being quiet when he hears a knock at the door. A further refinement is to make the knock a cue to lay down on a mat, or to sit quietly by the front door. This is a very polite greeting indeed!

If you have a doorbell, the same procedure applies. If your doorbell has different ring tones, try to set it to use only one ring tone.

This is certainly not the only approach to ending barking at the door, but for the majority of dogs it is the easiest and most effective approach. Try it and see!

Aidan Bindoff is editor of Positive Petzine, a free resource for people training their own dogs, http://www.groups.yahoo.com/group/positivepetzine/ to subscribe and to download all back issues free for private use for a limited time only.

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Socialisation is so vitally important that it almost outweighs all other considerations. The fear of infections has led breeders and owners alike to make the tragic mistake of keeping their puppies isolated until they have completed their vaccinations. By taking this stance they risk ending up with a fearful, timid dog that may become aggressive in later life,
(FACT) “95% of all reported dog bites are fear related”.

Owners should strike a commonsense balance. Puppies, especially from birth through to 16 weeks must be exposed to a variety of experiences including people, places, and meeting other vaccinated dogs (this is perfectly safe). There are many activities and places to take dogs, without endangering their health or their lives. It is vital that you take the time to expose your new pup to as many of these situations as possible. This is especially true for one’s second or third dog; it is too easy to keep the new pup in the company of the older dogs, depriving him of the opportunity to develop self-confidence of his own, without relying totally on the older dog/s and their protection.

There is a vaccination that has been available for two years, where the full course can be administered by ten weeks rather than the normal twelve, therefore allowing two extra vital weeks of socialisation. The vaccine is made by Intervet and is called Nobivac D.H.P.P.I/L. I would discuss this with your Vet, if they don’t supply it ask why?

Having said all that, genetics as well as socialisation ie Nature x Nurture have a major impact on your dog’s ability to cope successfully with life. Some are so solid genetically that whatever life throws at them they just bounce back. I have a little rescue Jack Russell/Dachund cross whose early experiences were so horrific that he should have every hang up in the book, the abuse and injuries suffered by this poor dog included his leg being fractured and snapped out of the hip socket, and all his ribs systematically broken.

Over a period of time and with the ministrations of a fabulous veterinary nurse I was asked to look at his temperament with a view to rehoming. After meeting him and hearing his awful story I decided to treat and rehome him with me. He has now made a full recovery, his confidence has soared, once again he loves and trusts people, his tail a constant blur is testament to his ability to cope with everything life has thrown at him. So despite a traumatic start “the abuse started at four months old” he has overcome this and is now one of the nicest and most loving dogs I have ever owned.

Unfortunately other dogs are not so genetically sound. Even with an ideal environment, early socialisation and the perfect owner. This will not be enough to help these hereditary unstable dogs. Their genetic temperament can and will determine how much improvement in personality and social skills the dog can achieve. It is about time that some breeders came to the realisation that that temperament not looks or conformity should be the main reason for breeding.
Not money or accolades!

Don’t expect a 100% cure there is no miracle word or magic wand, and don’t underestimate the amount of work involved. Yes you can create a less fearful and anxiety ridden dog but only to the level that the dog can sustain. The type of owner or trainer that believes that the fearful dog should be thrust headlong into every situation, and that it will desensitise and cure them are I am afraid sadly disillusioned.

The old trick of throwing a child into a swimming pool in the hope it would quickly learn to swim, is now hopefully outdated and outmoded, it achieved nothing except possibly leaving the victim with a lifelong fear of water. Crashing headlong into circumstances the dog cannot cope with will normally produce similar results.

You should also give careful consideration as the whether you want, or indeed have the time the stamina and the patience to treat and work with a dog that has irrational fears and phobias. If you do not possess the above traits, it may be better for both of you to separate and the dog be rehomed with someone that is hopefully experienced with this type of dog, and who has the necessary temperament to deal with a dog that can at the best of times exasperate and at the worst infuriate.

Distance Learning
To gain and improve a dog’s confidence and reduce the level of anxiety and timidity you need to use a consistent, gentle, positive, and measured approach. If you try to speed up the process beyond the capability of the dog, then you will go backwards and your dog’s new found confidence will plummet. Firstly you must work out the distance where your dog feels fearful of a given situation, let’s say it is another dog, then you need to approach the dog with yours on a lead, do not tighten the lead as this will convey your own anxiety to your dog. Watch your dog’s body language as soon as you see any submissive, aggressive or fearful reaction then stop and back up until the dog is relaxed again.

Once you have found the distance that allows the dog to relax then either treat or play with your dog using a favoured toy. What we are looking for is a positive association whereby the dog sees the feared object which could be anything from a vacuum cleaner to a bus. As a matter of interest dogs will not take food when they are fearful or stressed. This is instinctual as the flight mode kicks in, your dog does not want a full stomach when it may need to run away. This can also be used as an indicator of the dog’s state of mind even if there are no outward signs of distress.

Move in stages a little closer to whatever is causing the aggression or fear keep talking and reassuring the dog, you should be aiming to stay at a distance that allows the dog to feel reasonably relaxed. Gradually, over what could be many sessions you should reach the point where the dog will be comfortable, even though he is near to the object that caused the initial fear/reaction. Irrespective of whether it is another dog, place, or object gradual desensitisation should work for all.

Play or Training Therapy
There is an exception to this, if the dog has been recently frightened say by fireworks, you can actually act very blas

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