Pet The World

We have two birds. A cockatoo named Bailey, and a quaker parrot named Lucky, a.k.a. “Little Buddy.” I sometimes feel we should hang a sign saying, “This house is operated solely for the convenience of Bailey and Lucky.”

Bailey is loud, looney, and lovable. His antics are a guaranteed daily chuckle. Lucky is content to observe the goings-on and offer commentary, criticism, commands, and even limited conversation from his lofty perch (eg. he says ‘you’re welcome’, to which you respond ‘thank you’…he’ll get it straightened out some day). Our morning routine consists of feeding the birds, cleaning the cages and allowing the birds a couple of hours of free time outside of their cages, or as I’m sure they often think of it…their jail!

It was a dull, dreary day today. They slept extra long as a result. It was nearly ten o’clock before they began demanding breakfast. Bailey hadn’t been out five minutes until he started attacking his free-standing perch as if he were a miniature Paul Bunyan and the perch a giant redwood which needed to be felled. He was chased away repeatedly, until Elaine had enough, and put him in jail. Lucky made it a couple of minutes longer until he chomped down on Elaine’s chin when she thought he was going to cuddle. That did it for him. I think he will receive an extra long sentence for that one.

Elaine’s leaving shortly to visit friends, and I’ll retreat to my room soon thereafter. Bailey and Lucky can ponder the absence of their two hand-servants from jail…and reflect. Maybe tomorrow will be a brighter day.

For all the temporary little annoyances that residing with a cockatoo and a parrot bring, they are also very loving, intelligent, and as full of personality as a feathered Robin Williams. If you have patience, persistence, and a loving heart, they can make wonderful additions to any family

Dallas Wilkinson is a novelist, satirist, and social commentator. He can be reached at http://www.sidekickharry.com.

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Turtles are fascinating pets to own, but many people get them not knowing how to care for them. They need to have the right amount of space, light, shade, and moisture to survive. You need to learn what turtles require before you get one.

The best place to keep a turtle is outside. Turtles hibernate in the winter and if they are kept inside they won’t hibernate. This can cause them to develop liver diseases. A turtle’s natural cycle should not be messed with. Also, if you keep a turtle pen outside you can create a completely natural turtle habitat.

Some people that keep turtles inside use refrigerators to make them hibernate. This is not recommended though because if the refrigerator suddenly rises in temperature or if the power goes off, the turtle’s hibernation will be interrupted. This can be fatal for them. If you plan on keeping your pets inside, just don’t let them hibernate.

Also, if you keep your turtle inside, you must have a tank that is at least forty gallons. There has got to be enough room to have a land area and a water area. Two-thirds of the aquarium should be water and one-third should be land. You also need a place where they can lay in the heat of a lamp. You should keep the tank around eighty degrees during the day and seventy degrees at night. Turtles are cold blooded animals so they take a long time to adjust to temperature changes. For this reason, you should not take the turtle out of the tank to play with it. This sudden change in temperature can harm their immune system.

Some turtles do carry salmonella so be sure to wash your hands after handling them. Your turtle’s environment also needs to be kept clean. Keep the water fresh and keep any waste out. You might want to get a water filtration system to keep the water clean.

You should not use tap water for the tank, because tap water contains chlorine and fluoride. This can really mess up the ph balance. De-chlorinated water needs to be used for the swimming area and filtered water for them to drink. There are many commercial diets available for turtles. Dietary requirements differ depending on the species. You should feed your pet two to three times a week.

Do not put any wood chips or tree bark in your tank. If a turtle ingests this, it can cause problems. It will also get contaminated very quickly and cause molds or fungus to grow.

Turtles need twelve hours of sunlight. You should get a UV lamp for your tank to provide the vitamin D3 that sunlight gives off if you keep it inside. They need this to stay healthy. This is why you will often see turtles sitting out in the sun. Try to keep the tank in a room where the light doesn’t change that much.

Turtles also need a shelter to go in. They are sold at pet stores, but you can also make one using wood or stones. If you decide to keep plants in with your turtle, just make sure they aren’t poisonous to them.

Try to pay attention to your turtle’s behavior and take care of it the best you can. Turtles are very interesting to watch and will provide lots of enjoyment for your whole family.

Michael Russell

Your Independent guide to Pet Care

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Dog flea control and management requires an integrated approach. For effective treatment both the host animal and the environment must be treated at the same time. Control of fleas on the pet generally requires the use of insecticides. Although flea combs can remove some fleas, combing should be thought of as a method for detecting fleas rather than removing them.

If an animal is to be treated for other conditions besides fleas, such as expression of anal glands, these procedures should be done before the insecticide application to minimize insecticide contact with interior mucosal membranes.

A wide range of insecticides are available for flea control. The pyrethrins and pyrethroids have the lowest mammalian toxicity. These insecticides come in many formulations including shampoo, dust and powder, mousse, aerosol and non-aerosol mist or spray, dip, spot-on, roll-on and collar. Organophosphate drugs for oral use are available, by prescription from veterinarians.

In addition, some on-animal formulations contain insect growth regulators (IGRs) that kill flea eggs on the animal. *Remember to read all insecticide labels, and to follow all precautions and dose directions.

The insecticides used for flea control vary widely in toxicity and efficacy. Considerations for selecting a formulation include the size, weight and age of the animal, as well as the species.

For example, greyhounds are a very chemical-sensitive breed and are more sensitive to insecticide products than most other dogs. Do not attach flea collars or flea-killing medallions on these dogs. Do not use chlorpyrifos, DDVP, methoxychior or malathion on greyhounds.

Cats are more sensitive to organophosphate insecticides than dogs. In addition, cats groom themselves more than dogs and are more likely to ingest an insecticide by licking the residue from their fur.

Kittens and puppies, because of their smaller size, require a lower dose than adult animals. Young animals may also require treatment with insecticides of lower toxicity than adult animals. Pregnant or nursing animals may be sensitive to certain insecticides.

Several products are available for especially sensitive pets and other situations that require lower risk chemical measures. These include the citrus peel extracts d-limonene and linalool, sorptive dusts such as silica aerogel or diatomaceous earth, the insect growth regulators fenoxycarb or methoprene, and insecticidal soaps.

Theses words may seem foreign to you, but you can always consult a veterinarian if you have questions. They will have accurate information on insecticides and their use for flea control on pet animals. The insecticide label should also contain accurate information on how a particular formulation of an insecticide should and should not be used. *Remember to read these labels before opening the container!

When using insecticides for flea control, remember that the applicator, namely your pet and you can be exposed to the insecticides several times. The label may call for the use of gloves and other protective equipment during application and suggest the pet not be handled with unprotected hands until the treatment dries. All personal protective equipment listed on the label must be worn. As a minimum aspect, chemical-resistant gloves, apron and goggles should be worn while mixing insecticides and during application to prevent insecticide contact with the skin.

The working area should be appropriate for containment of the pesticide and should be resistant to caustic materials. A stainless steel preparation table and stainless steel or ceramic tub are ideal. Also, certain parts of the pet’s body (such as the eyes) may be sensitive to the insecticides and must be shielded during application. When using flea “bombs” (aerosol cans with a self-releasing mechanism), follow all the precautions and remove the pets from the area being treated. For your information, using excessive aerosols is illegal and may cause fires and even explosions.

The other important part of an integrated flea management program is to control larval fleas in the habitat away from the animal. This can be achieved either mechanically or with insecticides. Mechanical or physical control of flea larvae involves removal and laundering of animal bedding and thorough cleaning of areas frequented by the animal.

Using a vacuum with a beater bar and immediately disposing of the waste bag effectively eliminates up to half of the larvae and eggs in carpet. You should also launder animal bedding and thoroughly clean areas the animal frequents and dispose of the vacuum waste bag after every cleaning.

Do not put insecticides in the vacuum cleaner bag. This is an illegal and dangerous use of the products and can harm you, your family and pets by creating dusts or fumes that could be inhaled.

Another mechanical control measure is carpet shampooing or steam cleaning. This rids the carpet of blood feces, an important food for the larvae, and may also remove eggs and larvae. In outdoor areas, cleaning up the places where animals like to rest reduces eggs and larvae and removes blood pellets. In yards and kennels, flea larvae can be found in cracks at wall-floor junctions and in floor crevices. These areas must be thoroughly cleaned and then maintained to prevent another infestation.

Recently several ultrasound devices, including collars, have entered the market claiming to control or repel fleas. Several scientific studies have investigated these devices and found absolutely no basis for the manufacture’s claims. Ultrasonic devices do not control flea populations. It is unnecessary for you to buy these equipments.

Chemical control of flea larvae can be achieved with insecticides. Organophosphate, carbamate, pyrethrin, pyrethroid and growth regulator (hormone mimic) insecticides as well as certain minerals are available for flea control in the environment These insecticides are formulated as coarse sprays, foggers and dusts or are micro-encapsulated.

All but the growth regulators kill flea larvae on contact. Insect growth regulators prevent flea larvae from developing to the adult stage. Growth regulators may also inhibit egg hatching. A good flea larval control program will incorporate sanitation, contact insecticides and growth regulators for good results.

Flea management requires patience, time and careful planning. Vacuuming and cleaning areas frequented by dogs and cats should be routine. The same applies to kennels. If an infestation occurs, insecticide applications on the animals or in the environment may have to be repeated according to the label. The need for retreatment and time intervals between insecticide treatments will vary with the kind of insecticide and the formulation.

Flea control will not be successful if only one approach is used. The animal and its environment must be treated simultaneously, and that treatment must be combined with regular sanitation efforts. Read all product labels carefully. Do not overexpose your pet by combining too many treatments at one time, such as a collar, a shampoo and a dust. Pesticides have a cumulative effect. Be aware of each product’s toxicity and do not endanger yourself or the animal by using excessive amounts of any one product or by combining products.

To end, please remember that flea control will only be successful when you treat both your pet and the environment simultaneously. Hope this article is useful in helping you manage flea problems.

Moses Chia is the webmaster of DogsObedienceTraining.com. He provides more helpful information on dog obedience training, dog training book reviews and dog illness symptoms interpretation that you can learn in the comfort of your home on his website. You are welcome to reprint this article if you keep the content and live link intact.

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